Old Florida Survives In Arcadia

by Robert Tolf 

It's becoming increasingly difficult in this state to find lil' ole' hideaways, places that really fit the overused phrase, "Florida the way it used to be."

That's why I like to get off the interstates and search for some time-stood-still space. As I did a few weeks ago when, headed for Bradenton via State Roads 70 and 72, I stopped for a time in Arcadia, 75 miles southeast of Tampa. The name itself is inspiring, bringing thoughts of Italian Renaissance and Elizabethan romances, of Philip Sidney and Shakespeare.

But the name of the county seat was selected in the 1880s to honor the daughter of a pioneer, Arcadia Albritton. She baked a birthday cake for the town founder, who had opened the first sawmill. He obviously thought the cake was good enough to change the name of the town from Tater Hill Landing to Arcadia.

That first sawmill was soon joined by others, and by the turn of the century Arcadia was a prosperous timber town with pine and cypress the primary products. Then came the farmers, the citrus growers and the cattlemen. The railroad came to town, imposing mansions were built, and merchants flocked to bring the goods of the world to the Florida heartland.

Today their shops sell antiques and sport names such as Downstairs Attic, Papa and Nannies, Picket Fence, China Bisque Doll Hospital, Hidden Treasures, Curiosity Shop and My Friend and Me.

They're in Arcadia's downtown, which has 374 buildings in the National Register of Historic Places, including the Opera House, now a museum, and the restored train depot. Easy to find and fun to visit, but remember to pick up a self-guided tour book at the Visitor Center.

A short walk away are the downtown antique shops, opera and railroad station museums, and for a fuller taste of Florida's wild, wild west there is the Arcadia All-Florida Championship Rodeo in March and October, along with a single day of bull-riding matches in July.

If you're looking for more action, ask the Visitor Center about canoeing on the nearby Peace River. Canoe Outpost (800-268-0083) has been conducting full- and half-day canoe and kayak tours since the 1970's and can arrange canoe and camping gear rentals.

Instead of paddling, I did some light lunching, at Slim's Deep South Bar-B-Q (319 S. Brevard St.; 863-494-2332). The first words from the friendly young waitress were: "The fish of the day is salmon and if you'd like it, we serve that with a light mustard sauce."

As I was searching the menu for something with ribs and half chicken slathered with palate-awakening barbecue sauce, she informed me that they also serve yellow-tail and swordfish when they can get it fresh.

What wonders in lil' ole' Arcadia! I now have another reason to get off the beaten track.

IF YOU GO

Getting there: Arcadia is on State Road 70, which separates into Hickory (westbound) and Magnolia (eastbound) -- one-way streets through the heart of town.